Florence Fatialofa, a 2nd generation Aesthetician, Skincare Specialist, Beauty Panelist, and Champneys College graduate is here to discuss skincare evolution and the perception of beauty
The word “Skincare” might give you an impression of all the hypes shown on media, however, the roots of skincare concepts and practices can be traced back to ancient times. Attention to aging skin had been a priority in Egyptian culture back in 3000 BC, followed by the Chinese, Greeks, Romans, The Elizabethans, and now the Modern Skincare. The skincare evolution has gone from natural to harsh chemicals then to advanced technological developments. We can be overwhelmed by the abundance of choices. 「護膚」這個詞可能會讓你聯想到媒體上所有的熱潮，但其實護膚的概念和做法可追溯至古代。早在公元前3000年的埃及文化中，對抗衰老的肌膚就已經是一項優先任務，隨後是中國、希臘、羅馬、伊麗莎白時代，直至現代護膚。護膚的演變從天然成分到強效化學品，再到先進的科技發展，這一過程讓人感到眼花繚亂，選擇繁多，讓人不知所措。
When it comes to this topic, this month’s A-Lister knows it all. She is a 2nd generational Aesthetician, Skin Care Specialist, and Beauty Panelist - Florence Fatialofa. A British beauty, who was inspired from a very young age, by her mother’s success as a Holistic Therapist and Aesthetician. She later decided to pursue a career in a related therapeutic industry in Asia and has completed her studies at Champneys College in the United Kingdom, one of the world’s most prestigious and well-recognized health and beauty institutes. She is here to discuss skincare evolution and the perception of beauty. 談到這個話題，這個月的A-Lister絕對是內行人。她是位第二代美容師、護膚專家和美容討論小組成員—— Florence Fatialofa。這位來自英國的美容界專家，從年輕時便受母親作為整體治療師和美容師的成功啟發。後來，她決定在亞洲的相關治療行業發展，並在世界上最著名和受認可的健康與美容學院之一 Champneys學院完成了學業。今天，她將與我們討論護膚的演變以及對美的認知。
C O N V E R S A T I O N
NL | Nicole Lui @ NOIRSTONE FF | Floreance Fatialofa
NL | As an Aesthetician, you’ve seen and helped to heal different types of skin over the years. What’s the most common misconception that the general public has when it comes to skincare and beauty? FF | That one product or treatment can fix everything, and fast. Consistency is key and you could be using all the ‘best’ products and treatments in the world, but what goes on internally has a huge say in skins appearance. Some things we can control, like diet and lifestyle choices, others we cannot, genetics for example. That’s why as an aesthetician its important to find the root cause of the skin issue and not just treat and repeat. Treating internally and externally is key. Also the ‘one size fits all’ approach is a misconception. Just because a product or treatment is suitable for your friend, does not mean that it may be suitable for you. It’s like comparing an apple to an orange! NL | ：作為一名美容師，這些年來你見證並幫助了各種不同膚質的修復。當談到護膚和美容時，公眾最常見的誤解是什麼？ FF | 大家常常誤以為，某一個產品或療程可以迅速解決一切問題。其實，持之以恆是關鍵，你可能會使用世界上最好的產品和療程，但肌膚的狀況仍然與你內部的健康密切相關。有些事情我們可以控制，比如飲食和生活方式選擇，而有些則無法控制，比如基因。因此，作為美容師，找到肌膚問題的根源，而不是只治標不治本，才是最重要的。同時，「一刀切」的做法也是一種誤解。某個產品或療程適合你的朋友，不代表它對你也適用，這就像是拿蘋果和橙子來做比較！
NL | Cutting-edge ingredients and new skin treatment procedures keep popping up in the skincare world, it’s most likely become a fashion statement. How do you position it and find the balance? FF | You’re right there is always new developments and discoveries. Just like any industry (food, fashion..) there will always be ‘trends’, some good, some not so good, so as long as we can decipher which of those are effective, beneficial, and safe then generally those will be the treatments and products you will keep hearing about time and time again. I’m constantly doing online courses, reading books or attending workshops to keep up to date with what’s out there. Always get a consultation from a skincare specialist and do your homework before trying something new on a whim. NL | 護膚界不斷推出尖端的成分和新療程，這些可能也成為了一種時尚表徵。你是怎麼定位這些新趨勢並找到平衡的？ FF | 你說得對，的確有許多新發展和新發現。就像任何行業（如食品、時尚等）一樣，總會有「潮流」，有些好，有些不好。只要我們能夠分辨哪些對我們有效、對我們有益且安全，那麼這些就是我們會反覆聽到的產品和療程。我不斷通過線上課程、閱讀書籍或參加工作坊來跟上最新資訊。使用任何新產品或療程之前，最好先諮詢護膚專家，並做好功課。
NL | Would you go for Natural or Synthetic products, or both? Any ancient time skincare technique that still works nowadays? FF | Personally I use both. As in, my product contains natural ingredient/s with the delivery system or encapsulation of something ‘Synthetic’ I.e. it’s produced in a lab by a chemist to regulate the stability and delivery into the skin. There’s a lot of confusion out there on this topic (As you and me know from our panel discussion/debate we were on last year!) NL | (Air-Five) HA! I do remember that discussion at the panel and I completely agree. There are misconceptions that "Natural" gotta do no wrong, however, natural mechanism secretes toxins which need to be removed before used, or being processed in order to activate its own potentials. I think the concept of "synthetic" is equivalent to "toxic chemicals" in consumers' minds or vice versa, but not all are in the same case, it really is all about the quality and the right formulation. NL | 你會選擇天然還是合成產品，還是兩者兼顧？有沒有古老的護膚技巧至今仍然有效？ FF | 就我個人而言，我會兩者兼用。我的產品中可能包含天然成分，但其遞送系統或封裝方式則可能是「合成的」，例如，這些成分是由化學家在實驗室中製造出來的，旨在調節穩定性並有效地遞送至肌膚。這個話題有很多混淆（就像我們去年在討論小組中所說的那樣！） NL |（舉手擊掌）哈哈！我記得那次討論，並且完全同意你的觀點。很多人誤解「天然」就一定沒錯，但其實天然機制會分泌出需要在使用前去除的毒素，或者需要進行處理才能激活其潛力。我認為消費者心中，「合成」就等於「有毒化學品」，但事實上並非所有的合成成分都是如此，這完全取決於品質和正確的配方。
Photography | Floreance Fatialofa / Unsplash
NL | What do you see in Eastern vs Western skincare/beauty world? And, what do you find is missing in this multicultural city? FF | Asian and Caucasian skin are structurally slightly different, with Asian skin having a thicker dermis where our collagen and elastin live, giving more of a fullness and therefore generally not showing fine lines and wrinkles as quickly as Caucasian skin, but on the flip side they can have more pigmentation and post inflammatory scarring (lingering marks after a breakout or wound) which is due to their higher melanin production. Therefore, the skin requires to be treated a bit differently and the consumers' concern will differ which will be reflected in the products and treatments offered on both markets.
‘Glass skin’ is still in, so dewy complexions in Asia are popular. At the moment I generally find Eastern skincare has more steps than a typical western routine, with essences, ampoules, and lotions being slotted into routines. I find that my Asian clientele like to use home skincare devices whereas my western clientele do not as much.
When I’m in a beauty department like Harvey Nichols or Lane Crawford, if I look around I can guess which are the eastern skincare brands as they tend to emphasize more on making the packaging look attractive with bold eye-catching colours of golds, reds, whereas I find western sticks to quite simple colours and designs. Western world has a bigger makeup emphasis, so perhaps that’s why eastern spend more time and detail on their skin steps, because they tend not to rely on makeup as much? I’m really generalizing here and just speaking from personal experience.
NL | That is quite interesting data. You're right, it's completely the opposite preference, especially before the time K-beauty went West or Western community started paying attention to Eastern healing philosophy. Asians tend to focus on the "canvas", work on internal and skin health, I guess it's due to the long history and the philosophy of ancient medicine. NL | 你怎麼看東方與西方在護膚/美容領域的差異？在這個多元文化的城市中，你認為缺少了什麼？FF | 亞洲與白種人的膚質結構略有不同，亞洲人的真皮層較厚，這是我們的膠原蛋白和彈性蛋白所在，這使得膚色更加飽滿，因此一般來說，細紋和皺紋出現的速度比白種人慢。但相對的，他們可能會有更多的色素沉澱和炎症後色素沉著（痘痘或傷口痊癒後留下的痕跡），這是由於他們的黑色素產量較高。因此，護膚方法會有所不同，消費者的關注點也會有所區別，這也會反映在市場上的產品和療程上。 「玻璃肌」在亞洲依然很流行，因此亞洲的護膚品常常強調滋潤的肌膚，而西方的護膚則更注重簡單快捷。這也是為什麼我的亞洲客戶更喜歡使用家用護膚設備，而西方客戶則不太會這樣。 NL | 這真是很有趣的觀察。你說得對，這完全是相反的偏好，尤其是在K-beauty進入西方市場之前，西方社會對東方治療哲學的重視也在逐步增加。亞洲人往往更加注重「肌膚本身」，強調內部健康和皮膚的養護，這可能與古老醫學的歷史和哲學有關。
NL | What does beauty mean to you? FF | It’s skin deep. Be happy and healthy in yourself and that will reflect. NL | 對你而言，美是什麼？ FF | 美是由內而外的。要快樂和健康，這將反映在你的肌膚上。
NL | Has your husband ever asked you to help improve his skin? Do you think it helps couples maintain their intimacy through skincare? FF | Hah. My husband has great skin I am so envious, it’s those Samoan skin loving genes of his. We definitely enjoy the occasional Netflix and face mask night, and he is certainly more skincare savvy than when we first met. He has gone from using shampoo and body wash on his face, to being meticulous at using micellar water on cotton squares - its so quick and easy for him to do, and I know he likes to see what comes off on the squares.. I hope he is okay with me saying this! Micellar water is also great for teens coming in from the hong kong pollution and humid summers. Keep it by the door - A quick wipe over and go. NL | 你的丈夫有沒有曾經請你幫助改善他的膚質？你認為護膚有助於夫妻之間的親密關係嗎？ FF | 哈哈，我丈夫的皮膚很好，我真是羨慕他，這可能就是來自他那基於薩摩亞基因的皮膚。我們確實會偶爾進行Netflix面膜之夜，而且他現在對護膚比我們剛認識時聰明多了。他從用洗髮水和沐浴露洗臉，到現在仔細使用微米水和棉花片，我知道他喜歡看到棉花片上卸下來的東西...希望他不會介意我說這些！微米水對於那些在香港面對空氣污染和潮濕夏天的青少年也非常有效。放在門邊，隨手擦一擦就走。
NL | It definitely is beautiful that you’re influenced by your mother. What was her best advice for your skin health and wellness? FF | Funny I was just reminiscing through old emails that mum had sent me years back when I first moved to Hong Kong, and she was so knowledgeable and just spot on, on so many levels. She always maintained that you need to look after yourself as a whole and that that would be reflected, but also to accept there are some things that we can’t control. She was one of the healthiest people I knew, never drank, never smoked, exercised, ate organic food before it was even a thing, and the one time she had a McDonald's she threw up (I have a vague memory of standing in a McDonald's bathroom cubicle with her. I think I was around 5 or so) Yet like she said, some things you can’t control, and she was sadly diagnosed with dementia a few years back which meant she could no longer do what she loved, working as a holistic therapist. So, change what you can and don’t stress over the things you can’t.
NL | As the skincare and wellness world continues evolving, what’s your vision of change in our society a decade from now? FF | Robot aestheticians? Hope not! I think people are generally more time poor these days so naturally want things fast, the faster the better, so likely we will continue to see treatments and products pressured on emphasizing quick result time. Perhaps science will find a way to make our body recognize processes within the skin at a faster rate, a big ask and an unlikely one for the coming decades! NL | I like what you're saying. Not to anti-science, the real improvement is about utilizing science in the right way to transform our skin and wellness instead of making consumers two steps forward one step back.
NL | If you were to meet your younger self, what advice would you give her? FF | Hmmm. I would tell her to stay off the sunbeds and make better lifestyle choices because it will come back to bite you! NL | Amen to that, violently! It's the most heard advice from who have gone thru that Sun-babies stage. I'd give my younger self the same advice. NL | 如果你能見到年輕時的自己，你會給她什麼建議？ FF | 嗯，我會告訴她不要再去日光浴床，做出更好的生活選擇，因為這些會在未來回來找你的！ NL | 說得好，真的是很多曾經經歷過「日光寶寶」階段的人都會給自己這個忠告，我也會給年輕時的自己一樣的建議。
NL | What’s that one question you’d like to ask our NS Insiders? FF | If you could do or be anything in the world, what would that be? And whatever that answer is, how could you incorporate a part of that into your life right now? NL | Thank you for your insight, Florence, I have definitely learned from you. NL | 你想問我們的NS Insiders一個問題嗎？ FF | 如果你能做或成為世界上任何一個人，你會選擇做什麼？無論答案是什麼，你如何把它的一部分融入到現在的生活中？ NL | 謝謝你的分享，Florence，我從你身上學到了很多。
| Drink(s) | Very stereo-typically British, cups of tea! 典型的英國飲品，幾杯茶！
| Song Of The Month | Le Onde by Ludovico Einaudi is my current chill song. And Only One - (Remix version!) by Sigala is my get up and go happy song. Two totally different choices. 《Le Onde》由盧多維科·艾奧努迪演奏的輕柔音樂；以及《Only One - (Remix version!)》由Sigala演唱，讓我振作起來的開心歌。兩首完全不同的選擇。
| Book(s) | Spark joy by Marie Kondo. Highly recommend for those wanting to de-clutter your mind, and home! 整理儀式》由瑪麗·近藤著，強烈推薦給那些想整理心情和居家環境的人。
| Stress reliever(s) | Cuddles with my 4 rescue furbabies, Nonsense chats with my girlfriends. Early morning walks with my hubby, and yoga. 與我的四隻救援寵物親親，與朋友們閒聊，與丈夫一起晨跑，還有瑜伽。
| That 1 Thing You Keep Telling Yourself | You can do it
| Daily Routine | Hit snooze at least 5 times, much to husbands annoyance. Get up and walk or gym. Work, wherever that may be that day. Some days I’m in a spa setting, others in a clinic or conducting training workshops. Get home and relax with hubby and furbabies. We are big homebodies. Home Is my haven. 按下貪睡鈕五次(丈夫會皺眉頭)；起床走路或去健身房；工作，無論今天在哪裡；回家放鬆，和丈夫及寵物待在一起。家是我的避風港。
_____
This article was originally published in Jan 2020
Disclaimer: This publishing is made for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be medical and life advice, nor an exhaustive list of specific treatment protocols. The approach and perspective is only based upon the content contributor’s knowledge, research, or clinical experience. The content creators, authors, editors, reviewers, contributors, and publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy or continued accuracy of the information or for any consequences in the form of liability, loss, injury, or damage incurred as a result of the use and application of any of the information, either directly or indirectly. Each plan must be individually tailored with the guidance and clinical judgment of your medical or healthcare practitioner or related advisor.
.png)
