Vitamin A is known to be one of the most potent antiaging ingredients. Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) are the most raved ingredients by both dermatologists and skincare worshipers. They’re incredibly fantastic for treating both acne and the signs of aging skin. However, Retinoids can be irritating for some people. The results can be either irritating or enthralled.
維他命 A 一直被認為是最強效的抗衰老成分之一。視黃醇（Retinoids，維他命 A 衍生物）既是皮膚科醫生最推崇的成分，也是護膚愛好者心中的明星成分。它對於治療暗瘡及皮膚老化跡象極為有效。不過，視黃醇對某些人來說可能引起刺激或敏感，效果可是既驚艷，亦令人煩惱。

‍Bakuchiol
‍紫草醇

Bakuchiol is an ingredient found in the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). Babchi plant has been around for a long time and is used in Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese medicines. It has powerful antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties against skin bacteria and free radicals.
紫草醇源自補骨脂植物（Psoralea corylifolia），又稱 Babchi。補骨脂自古已廣泛應用於印度阿育吠陀及中醫藥。研究指出，它具有強大的抗菌、抗氧化及抗炎功效，有效對抗皮膚細菌及自由基。

Its oil called “Bakuchi”, permeates through the epidermis and stimulates the cells situated there. It helps to change white skin, rough, dry, scaly, discoloured skin within a few months. It is also used for early wound healing and believed to be one of the remedies for vitiligo.
其油脂「Bakuchi」能滲透表皮層，刺激細胞運作，有助於改善皮膚蒼白、粗糙、乾燥、脫屑、色素不均等問題，幾個月內已有明顯轉變。同時，它亦被用於促進傷口癒合，甚至被認為是治療白癜風的藥材之一。

In Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), Psoralea corylifolia (known as 補骨脂 Bǔ Gǔ Zhī) has been recorded since the Shen Nong Ben Cao Jing (Divine Farmer’s Classic of Materia Medica). It is described as a warming herb that “tonifies Kidney Yang” and “secures essence,” supporting both vitality and bone strength. Externally, it has long been applied in topical formulas to address skin conditions such as vitiligo, eczema, alopecia, and premature aging of the skin. However, the lens of classical materia medica records, “Bǔ Gǔ Zhī” referred to a medicinal herb whose functions may differ from the modern research and applications of bakuchiol in skincare. Modern pharmacological studies continuously confirm these traditional uses, showing its active compounds—particularly bakuchiol and psoralen—exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and melanin-stimulating effects, which align with both its historical reputation and contemporary cosmetic interest.
在中醫藥典籍《神農本草經》中，補骨脂（補骨脂，Bǔ Gǔ Zhī）早已被記載。中醫認為它性溫，具有「補腎陽、固精氣」的作用，能增強活力及鞏固骨質。外用方面，歷代醫家常將補骨脂應用於白癜風、濕疹、脫髮及皮膚早衰等問題。可是在古代本草記載中，補骨脂是指一種藥物，其功效與現代研究的補骨脂酚在皮膚保養上的應用會不同。現代藥理學𣎴斷研究來證實其主要活性成分——紫草醇與補骨脂素——具有抗菌、抗氧化、抗炎及促進黑色素生成的作用，印證了其傳統應用與當代美容功效的契合。

A patented and pure form of Bakuchiol called “Sytenol® A”, is a well-defined material with a purity level of  ≥ 90% manufactured by company Sytheon.  Sytenol® A is the first natural alternative to Retinol without having any of the negatives associated with Retinol which means it’s photochemically & hydrolytically stable, as well as suitable used during the day.
一種專利及高純度的紫草醇「Sytenol® A」，由 Sytheon 公司生產，純度達 ≥90%。它是第一個被認可為視黃醇替代品的天然成分，沒有視黃醇常見的副作用，並且具備光化學及水解穩定性，因此能於日間使用。

Retinol VS Bakuchiol

In a recent open-access/open-source independent clinical study has showed the impressive results from a double-blind trial for 12 weeks, with 44 people applied either 0.5% bakuchiol topical twice daily, or 0.5% retinol topical once daily on their skin.
一項為期 12 週、隨機雙盲臨床研究，邀請 44 名參與者使用護膚品：其中一組每天兩次塗抹 0.5% 紫草醇，另一組則每天一次塗抹 0.5% 視黃醇。

Despite their chemical structures being different, the gene expression of bakuchiol is found to be similar to retinol in the skin.  It’s able to affect cell pathways and stimulate collagen without acting on retinoic acid receptors. The results have also shown retinol users experienced excess peeling and discomfort while bakuchiol users didn’t.
雖然兩者化學結構不同，但研究發現紫草醇在基因表達方面與視黃醇相似，能夠影響細胞信號傳路並刺激膠原蛋白生成。

Why Retinol Isn’t Seen In Asian Skincare
為何亞洲護膚品中較少見到視黃醇

Retinol is indeed powerful, however it’s not easy to be seen in Asian skincare.  Here are the reasons:

視黃醇雖然強效，但在亞洲護膚品中卻不常見，原因包括：

1. Dermatologist sessions and procedures cost way less than western countries.
   皮膚科診症及療程在亞洲地區的收費遠低於西方國家。
2. In Asian skincare routines are about improving skin health without non irritating substances.
   亞洲護膚哲學著重「健康膚質」及「低刺激性」成分。
3. In Korean skincare, Retinyl Palmitate is used as vitamin A ingredient which is less irritating than retinol and without disrupting the “glass skin” standard.
   在韓國護膚品中，常見的是視黃棕櫚酸酯（Retinyl Palmitate），比視黃醇溫和，亦不影響「玻璃肌」標準。
4. There are many more herbal ingredients that are capable of delivering anti acne and antiaging results than retinol alone.
   亞洲傳統草本成分眾多，具備抗暗瘡及抗衰老的效果，未必需要單靠視黃醇。
   

However, does it mean Retinol is bad?  No. They are all good, it depends on the user and what their skin truly needs as well as how their skin response to it.  
這是否代表視黃醇不好？並不是。關鍵在於個人皮膚狀態、需求，以及對成分的耐受度。

Retinol Q&A
維他命A醇問答

With Florence Fatialofa
NS = Nicole @ NoirStone.club
FF = Florence Fatialofa

NS | Is the higher % (percentage) of retinol or retinoids the better?
NS | 是否較高濃度 (%) 的視黃醇或衍生物效果會更好？

FF | No. Everyone’s skin will tolerate % differently. If your skin is compromised or sensitive then a higher % would be inappropriate and work against the skin. It's better to start on a low % and drip feed it to the skin over the first couple weeks before using it daily and/or upping the %. Over time you will discover what your ceiling % is the more you get familiar with your skin and how it responds.
FF | 不一定。每個人的皮膚對濃度的耐受度都不同。如果皮膚狀態受損或偏敏感，過高濃度反而會適得其反。最佳做法是先從低濃度開始，逐步適應，再逐漸加強或增加使用頻率。隨着對自己皮膚反應的熟悉，你會找到最適合的臨界濃度。

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NS | One NS insider has asked why it didn’t seem to work even though she’s been using retinol for 8+ months?
NS | 有 Insider 說她用了超過 8 個月的視黃醇，但似乎沒有效果？

FF | The %, the type of retinol used, frequency applied and delivery system all needs to be taken into consideration. depending on the skin's response as well as what you expect to achieve from the product. If you're looking for an oil controlling (over the counter) vitaminA product then go for retinol itself. If you want a less exfoliating form then go for retinaldehyde or retinyl palmitate for delicate skins. If you're using and storing the product correctly, then likely it means you need to switch  to a different form of vitamin A, or perhaps a % step up. Start by looking at what is the active ingredient -
FF | 這要視乎濃度、視黃醇種類、使用頻率及傳輸系統。若皮膚沒有明顯反應，可能需要轉用不同形式的維他命 A，或調整濃度。建議先查看成分標籤：

Is it retinyl acetate, retinol etc?
到底是視黃乙酸酯、視黃醇，還是其他呢？

What is the %?
其濃度是多少？

And what is the delivery method?
屬於直接塗抹，還是需要混合潤膚品使用？

Some forms you put neat onto the skin, others you need to mix with another product like a moisturiser. Prescription forms of vitamin A (retinoic acid) may be suitable for more chronic skin issues like acne but this needs to be determined by a dermatologist. To note, sometimes it's not until you stop using a product that you realise what it was doing for your skin.   ‍
若屬慢性皮膚問題如嚴重暗瘡，則可能需要皮膚科醫生處方的視黃酸。很多時候，直到停用後才會發現產品原本為皮膚帶來的作用。

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NS | Another NS Insider has stated retinol made her skin suffered from breakouts and congestion even after a long period of time, why's it that?
NS | 另一位 Insider 指出，使用視黃醇後長期出現爆瘡及閉塞，為何會這樣？

FF | I wouldn't think that it's the Vitamin A itself that's causing breakouts and congestion. Often products have other ingredients inside the formulation which interfere causing skin issues. All of the ingredients in the product would need to be looked at in order to answer properly - as well as looking at many other aspects outside of skincare as to what triggered these breakouts. Retinol products don't need to smell fruity or fragrant, so id start by looking there if it does.
FF | 我不會直接歸因於維他命 A 本身。很多護膚品配方中含有其他成分，可能才是引起問題的原因。需要全面檢視整個配方，甚至生活習慣。

Some skins that have a build up of underlying congestion or toxins can go through a purge when first using. It's important to stay hydrated - drink more water and less diuretics (alcohol/coffee) whilst the skin is trying to flush itself. Hydrated bodies will take the toxins out via going to the toilet, dehydrated bodies will try to push the toxins out (breakout). Also if the skin is very dehydrated, dry or compromised this can happen from the skin becoming irritated, therefore susceptible to bacteria congesting the pores. If you're certain that it's the product causing your breakouts, then try switching to another one of the many formulations out there, but with less added ‘extras’.
部分皮膚在剛開始使用時，會出現「排毒性爆發」，特別是底層堵塞較多時。建議保持充足水分，多喝水、少喝咖啡或酒精，幫助身體經尿液排毒。若身體缺水，反而會嘗試透過皮膚排毒，引起爆瘡。同時，若皮膚本身缺水或受損，亦容易被細菌感染。若確定是產品引起問題，可以嘗試選擇更單純、不含多餘香料或額外成分的配方。

It's never more true than with retinol use that one size does not fit all, a little extra attention must be given to the skin when using to understand what one's own skin can tolerate and what it cannot. Vitamin A is an amazing skin correcting product that can completely change a skin and many skin sufferers lives, but it does need flexibility and a little homework.  
總之，使用視黃醇必須謹慎觀察，每個人的耐受度不同。維他命 A 的確是出色的「皮膚矯正成分」，但需要靈活及謹慎去使用。

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NS | Are Retinoids / Retinol unsafe for pregnancy?
NS | 懷孕期間是否不能使用視黃醇或其衍生物？

FF | Being a potent active ingredient, it's advised not to use many forms during pregnancy and breastfeeding, however retinyl palmitate is usually deemed safe for use.
FF | 作為高效活性成分，通常不建議懷孕及哺乳期使用大部分形式的視黃醇。不過，視黃棕櫚酸酯一般被視為相對安全。

Verdict
結論

There’s no one size fits all.  Just because it brings the best results for person A, it can have unfortunate side effects for person B.  I’ve seen and received a good amount of positive comments from customers on how retinol diminished the signs of aging and acne breakouts. However, as the person who is unable to use a high dose of Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate and Bakuchiol are the big wins for my sensitive (and sensitized) skin, delivering the best results and pushing off any signs of aging,  without aggravating rosacea and eczema.
沒有一個成分適合所有人。視黃醇對某些人來說效果顯著，但對另一些人卻可能帶來困擾。我曾接觸過不少正面回饋，證明視黃醇能改善衰老跡象及暗瘡。不過，對於我這類無法耐受高劑量視黃醇的人來說，視黃棕櫚酸酯及紫草醇反而是最合適的選擇。它們在不刺激玫瑰痤瘡或濕疹的情況下，仍能帶來出色的抗衰老效果。

It’s about individuality and finding what’s right for you, not what trend reflects your desire.  If you’d like to try Bakuchiol, please keep in mind that not all bakuchiol are equal. It depends on the source. Some brands sell natural babchi oil under the name “bakuchiol”. Remember, it’s always better (and safer) to do proper research before purchasing.
護膚最重要的是「個人化」。選擇適合自己的成分，而不是盲目跟隨潮流。如果你想嘗試紫草醇，請記住：並非所有「紫草醇」產品都是一樣的。有些品牌只是將天然補骨脂油冠以紫草醇之名。購買前，最好做足功課，確保安全與品質。

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Research & Resource

1. ‍Prospective, Randomized, Double-blind assessment of topical bakufhiol and retinol for facial photoageing.
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2. Study results in PDF format by British Journal of Dermatology
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3. Bakuchiol : a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects

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This was originally published on our website in 2019/2020